Bartolo Mascarello

History

Bartolo Mascarello's winery was founded in 1918 by his father, Giulio, who returned to Barolo after World War I and decided to set up his own business, abandoning the Cantina Sociale. Giulio invested in small vineyards in Cannubi, San Lorenzo, and Ruè, laying the foundation for the family's winemaking tradition. Bartolo, who joined the winery in the 1940s, continued and improved this tradition, developing an autonomous and traditional style of winemaking that resisted the influence of French fashion and separate vinification for vineyards.

Bartolo was a fierce defender of traditional Barolo, earning him the nickname "the last of the Mohicans" alongside Giuseppe Rinaldi and Teobaldo Cappellano. He remained steadfast against the modern trends of the 1980s and 1990s, which favored single-cru wines and excessive oak aging. Instead, he adhered to the traditional methods of using grapes from multiple vineyards, long maceration, and aging in large Slavonian oak casks.

Bartolo's winemaking philosophy was also reflected in his labels, which often featured his famous "No Barrique, No Berlusconi" slogan. He passed away in 2005, leaving behind his daughter Maria Teresa, who continues to carry on the family tradition with the same combative spirit and dedication to traditional winemaking methods.

Terroir

Bartolo Mascarello's terroir is deeply rooted in the traditional Barolo region. The winery primarily uses Nebbiolo grapes from four crus: Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche. The terroir of these sites contributes to the complexity and elegance of the wines. For instance, Rocche, one of the monopole vineyards owned by Mascarello, features chalky limestone-rich soils and a southwest orientation, similar to Burgundy's Cote d'Or. This terroir, combined with the specific Nebbiolo clones like Michet, adds to the wine's intense yet understated structure and aromatic profile.

The diversity of terroirs within Castiglione di Falletto, where some of these crus are located, also plays a significant role. The village's varied soils, ranging from sandy Tortonian soils to high-limestone Helvetian soils, contribute to the balanced nature of the wines. The southeast orientation of many vineyards ensures ample sunlight, while the east orientation helps moderate the sun's heat, particularly in the cool mornings[2].

Mascarello's traditional winemaking methods, including fermentation in glass-lined concrete tanks and extended maturation in large, untoasted Slavonian botti, further emphasize the terroir-driven approach to winemaking. This traditional approach ensures that the wines express all the character of their terroir, making them quintessential examples of Langhe Nebbiolo[4].